To Change The Air Conditioner Filter: How Often Should You Do It?
June 4, 2010 by allanmadams
Filed under Heating And Air Conditioning
If you wish to stretch the life span of your air conditioner and ensure that it works at its best, there are several things that you need to do. The first and the most important thing for you to do is change the filter of your air conditioner or furnace once in every three to six months.
The interval of filter changes would depend on several points, like the type of your home. Do not defer the change of filters for too long, as it would only depreciate the effectiveness of your machine, and would pull up the operating expenses. Again, too frequent filter changes would be a sheer wastage of money!
Remember, that if your air conditioner has an efficient filter, you would need to clean and change it all the more. Most of the people find pleated filters sufficient for them. These have an efficiency of ten to sixty percent, though some companies say that their filters are even more efficient.
The pleated filters have to be replaced once in every three to six months. You should make the replacement within three months if your locality has a high level of dust.If you want a filter that has the maximum efficiency, go for an electrostatic, electronic or HEPA filter. These filters are more effective, and so you would have to change them more frequently.
The electrostatic filters possibly have the best blend of efficiency and value. You would initially have to pay almost two to six times more than a regular throwaway filter, but ultimately it would be more cost effective as these filters can be cleaned and recycled just by washing.
Even if the electronic filters are dirty, they do not hamper the flow of air. When they are dirty, they lose their capacity of draining dust out of the air and simply stop working properly. You would then have to clean and dry the electronic cells by soaking them in HVAC cleaner solutions.
If you are searching for the most efficient filters, HEPA filters are what you want. But the problem is that these filters become choked up very fast, can hamper the airflow and can even become unusable if too much clogged. Hence you would have to check them each month. You can ask your conditioner contractor whether your machine needs this type of filter.
The author is a owner of waterproofing solutions shop, he like to go out with Tom, house inspection staff to go out fishing, they are fans of http://fishingchartersauckland.co.nz.
Tips on Wood Burning
March 18, 2010 by allanmadams
Filed under Heating And Air Conditioning
Many reasons exist to choose fire wood burning as your main supply of heat these days. Some of the primary factors being that it is environmentally valuable and it can be a cheaper method to warm your house. Here, we will talk about some ideas and resource ideas for organizing your timber pile.
There are many excellent resources on the market that may help you get started with setting up your fire wood logpile to warm the house. One tool may be the Mantis Log Splitter. Immediately this can save you money on a rental or the option of purchasing huge amounts of lumber to heat your house.
Not only is heating your house with fire wood affordable and environmentally sound, creating a fire in your fireplace may be extremely relaxing to your soul and house in general. There is nothing like the sound of fire wood crackling in the fireplace as you begin your early morning.
Below are great tips regarding gathering your supply of fuel and the greatest uses of your electric log splitter.
Make sure you cut your fire wood to an suitable size for the hearth or stove. You will want to assess to make sure that it’s a minimum of 3-4 inches smaller than the width of where you will end up inserting it.
Make sure you develop your splitting approach as wood which is split too big will not burn up adequately. You ought to work to have a large range of measurements ranging from 3-6 inches in diameter for top level burning outcomes. You should determine or eyeball the bits of fire wood at the greatest cross portion of the log. Wood cut for the furnace could be just a tad larger than for a stove or fireplace. It’s great to also have some kindling or scaled-down bits of fire wood available as this is actually the best to work with for getting your fire going.
For successful burning to take place, fire wood can’t be moist and needs to have the dampness removed from it that it will have. This may involve some preparing ahead with your wood purchase, splitting and drying method. An effective way to get rid of water content from the logs is a natural method by letting the wind flow and sunlight dry them outside. Make your fire wood stack in a place where it may be warmed up by the sun, yet the wind flow has the capacity to blow through it as well.
It really can take about Six months for this drying method in order to be sure that all the dampness has been removed from the firelogs. For this reason, you will want to start this project in early spring to be sure that you have your lumber ready for the following winter cool period. Remember though that this depends mostly on your geographical area. Some climates and the types of fire wood that you discover there may take longer to dry so you will need to take this into consideration.
Now it’s time to fire up the Mantis Electric Log Splitter, or your resource of choice, and get to stacking that great fire wood pile. Winter weather will be here once again before long and you will be sitting pretty by that very nice and soothing fire realizing that you will be saving money and the environment in your preference to heat your house with wood.
Roof Insulation Extends The Life Of Your Furnace
March 17, 2010 by allanmadams
Filed under Heating And Air Conditioning
Not having the right roof insulation can mean spending an arm and leg on your energy. Knowing about your insulation and what your needs are can not only alleviate financial stress, but also can be an ecological step in the right direction. It does not matter whether you own a home or a business, this applies to you.
In a cold climate the primary concern is going to be making sure that the heat you are paying for stays inside, and the cold of Mother Nature stays outside. The way you make sure of that is insulating the attic area. This creates a buffer zone preventing heat loss. High or vaulted ceilings, though beautiful to behold, create a poor attic design and make insulating more difficult.
Hot climates shift the insulating focus slightly. Roof reflectors to minimize the effects of the hot sun are what is of concern. This will help the keep the inside feeling comfortably cool. It will also reduce wear and tear on your cooling unit. With this change in priority it is the roof design and not the ceiling design that is important.
In regions where people get to experience the weather with every season, insulation starts to get a little complicated. To really ensure that you are making the most of your money you will need to pay attention to the guidelines for both hot and cold climates. This means insulating your attic and utilizing roof reflectors.
To insulate, you may use just one type of materials, or a variety. The market today has an array of choices to choose from. There once was a line of pink fiberglass commercials that still come to mind when thinking about insulation. There are many choices though, and you will need to determine what you prefer to have, and also what will be the best choice for your building design.
Proper roof insulation can save an amazing amount of money, leaving you with some extra to go and enjoy the outdoors! Before deciding on anything do not forget to check with your local building codes.
Continue to read more all about loft insulation diy.
Air Conditioning Unit Not Working, What Could Be Wrong?
February 28, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
I purchased a house in December so naturally I did not try the air conditioning unit outside unitl the last couple of days. I do not have a heat pump just a Trane XE 1000 air unit. The thermastat is one that you have to program and I have not been able to do that very well. I noticed the house not cooling down but yet I could hear the furnace running so stupid me thought everything was ok until I noticed that the unit outside was not running. I checked the breakers on the inside of the house and also the breaker outside near the unit but nothing so far is working. Could it be something about not programing the thermastat correctly or is it more likely something wrong with the air conditioner?
Apartment Furnace Putting Out “fryer” Smell?
February 26, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
It started last week. At first I thought it was coming from my neighbors. Then I opened up the ulitity closet and was hit with a smell like there was a deep fryer in the closet. The apartment repairman says he couldn’t find anything wrong and it’s nothing. But he did replace the filter. That didn’t help. When I take off the access panel, I don’t see any soot or ashes or anything that looks out of place. There’s nothing in the blower compartment either. It doesn’t smell like gas, it smells like a deep fat fryer. What could it be? I’m tired of my apartment smelling like the kitchen of a fast food joint.
Should I Buy A Heat Pump Or A Gas Furnace And Central Air Conditioner Unit?
February 22, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
We currently live in a home with ceiling radiant heat and no air conditioning. It is horrible. We want to change to either a heat pump or to a gas furnace and central air system. We have no idea which to do in terms of cost and efficiencies.
Central Air Conditioning Question – Fan Motor?
February 20, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
problem: when trying to heat the house no warm air blows (only cold) until after we turn the heat up enough for the coils in the furnance (emergency heat) to come on.
we had ac guys come out and they checked everything and replaced the capacitor.
this worked about a day and a half
exact same problem came back. we have not called anyone yet.
additonal info: last night i tried to cool the house, theromstat said it was cooling but no air at all was blowing. i walked out to the unit and i heard buzzing (i heard this when the ac guys were working on getting the heat going) and finally after about 5 minutes, the fan started turning.
i went back inside and cold air was blowing………. the fan outside quit turning again off and on.
the fan blade turns freely (i saw the guy check that so i checked it as well)
basically:
when heating: cold air blows until coils in furnace come on (emergency heat), it should at least be warm when you bump it up a few degrees
when cooling: no air blows until the fan outside starts turning which seems to be sporadic.
it seems that maybe instead of a capacitor maybe its another problem
if its the fan motor, i know i can replace that myself because i took it out a few years ago and oiled it no problem.
what does everyone think? i have an ohm tester but if you tell me to use it you will need to tell me exactly what setting to put it on and explain it to me like a 3rd grader ![]()
thanks in advance for any ideas or help!
Does A Central Heating And Air Need To Be Connected To My Chimney..is This Ture?
February 18, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
Contractor says the Furnace doesn’t need to connected to the Chimney is this true. I have never heard of this before.
Pilot Light Won’t Staylit On Furnace…just Replaced Thermocouple…?
February 17, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
Any ideas? Can light it easily, and it will cycle through. We lit it about 3 hours and its still lit,but sometimes it will only stay lit for 45 minutesor so. Waiting to call the repairman (not open yet).
Pilot Light Won’t Staylit On Furnace…just Replaced Thermocouple…?
February 14, 2010 by admin
Filed under Heating & AC FAQ
Any ideas? Can light it easily, and it will cycle through. We lit it about 3 hours and its still lit,but sometimes it will only stay lit for 45 minutesor so. Waiting to call the repairman (not open yet).
/images/rss.gif)

